|When the Framiens sock pattern was released, I queued it right away. Luckily the GPY sock club decided to knit this sock for October-November. I decided to have the MC & CC the same for both socks. I also chose to use the same cuff, heel and toe for both socks. Each socks leg and foot pattern run in the opposite direction. While not a difficult knit, the pattern is tricky so I thought I would go through the steps.|
The pattern starts with a provisional cast on. I used the crocheted provisional cast on to start, using US 2.0 (2.75 mm) needles. (I wouldn't recommend using US 2.0 (2.75 mm) needles since it creates a loose chain edge for pickup. Live and learn.) The cuff is knit sideways with the first picot. The picot is knit as follows: Cast on 2 using the knitted cast on then bind off 2. You will have 15 stitches at the end of the picot. I chose to knit the 12 round repeat pattern.|
To choose your cuff pattern, first determine which color is your main color and your contrasting color. I chose the purple (my dark color) as my main color. If your dark color is your main color then choose one of the cuff charts from the MC = Dark Color, CC = Light color charts.
I finished the cuff on the 10th row of the 12th chart repeat. (Basically, just stop on the 10th row of your last repeat.) I knit the length of the cuff per the pattern directions since the size of the sock provided by the pattern worked for me. If you need a larger leg, you will need to knit a longer cuff. Increasing the length of the cuff first starts with your choice of cuff chart. You will have 1 slipped stitch chain for each garter ridge. This means that for the 12 row chart, each chart repeat adds 6 slipped stitches or 6 picked up stitches around the circumference of the sock. Here is a quicky chart to give you an idea of how to increase the stitch count of the sock:
You'll notice that once you increase the number of chart repeats, the resulting stitch counts between the cuff charts no longer line up. If the stitch count is close, you can correct the count by either decreasing or increasing stitches as appropriate. Otherwise, you will need to use the same chart for both socks. Also note that you will need to adjust the leg charts to add additional stitches. Hopefully this is enough info for you to give sizing a try. I'll try it the next time I knit this sock.
|At this point graft the cuff together using the Kitchener stitch for garter. I cheated and did a standard stockinette kitchener from the wrong side to get a purl bump on the right side. I ended up with a purl ridge that contained both the green and purple. If you are a perfectionist, graft in garter.|
Now pick up the appropriate number of stitches. I picked up 60. Purl the next round. If you have changed the size of the sock and need to adjust stitch count, do it in the purl round. Choose your two charts (one for front of sock and one for back, again based on whether your MC is dark or light) and knit your cuff to the desired length, ending with a CC chart row & a MC garter ridge. If you have adjusted the size of your sock, you will need to adjust the chart to add the extra stitches.
(Note: I changed to a US 1.5 (2.5 mm) needle after round 6 and completed the sock using that needle.)
|I modified the pattern a little when putting in the heel place holder. I actually wanted the heel on the other side of the sock. Paying closer attention when starting the sock would have avoided this, but it doesn't really matter. I just turned the sock around and knit the place holder on the back side. Starting at the midpoint, in my case the start of needle 2, K knit 31 stitches in my place holder yarn.|
|Now continue knitting per the pattern. Knit one garter ridge. You'll notice that the heel placeholder stitches are between the garter ridges.|
|At this point you need to to choose 2 more charts based on your MC, making any necessary size adjustments. I chose a 16 and 20 row chart. Since I chose a zigzag chart for the front of my leg, I chose the opposite zigzag chart for my foot. I knit one chart repeat of the 20 row chart and stopped to move back to my heel. I do not like fitting heels after the sock is complete. Its too hard to get a good fit. So, after having 20 rows knit, I had enough to stabilize the foot so I could start the heel.|
|Thread a needle through the stitches on either side of the place holder stitches, picking up the stitches on either side of the placeholder. Begin picking out the placeholder. Watch carefully, in case you missed a stitch. If a stitch was missed grab a removable marker and thread it through the stitch to hold it.|
|Once the placeholder has been removed, adjust your stitches on the needles, picking up any stitches which were missed. Count your stitches. I had 31 on each side, instead of 31 + 32.|
Adjust your stitch count on the next round. You should end up with 32 stitches on each side. Knit the round, picking up a stitch in the gap. The tricorner technique is designed to use up any extra yarn in the gap between front and back of heel so you won't have to stitch it up after the fact. If you don't understand the tricorner technique, use whatever technique you know and if you have a gap, close it up when weaving in ends.
Choose a heel chart based on your MC (on the last pattern page) and complete the heel. I changed the heel a little. The pattern calls for knitting through round 31 and then knitting across the front needle before grafting. I completed round 21 and then turned the sock inside out and did a standard stockinette kitchener so I had a garter ridge on the end of the heel. (Are you sensing a pattern here?)
|Go back to the foot and complete the foot to your desired length. (Hint: The heel chart is 31 rounds long. The toe chart is 33 rounds long. You can use the heel to help determine when you are ready to start the toe.) Remember that you must end the charts on a CC row and knit one more garter ridge in your main color.|
|Complete the toe. I used the same trick for closing the toe as I did for the heel.|
My project can be found on Ravelry at Amiens.